Encens et Lavande

The Verdict

Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande is a case study in simple beauty. Launched in 1996 and composed by the masterful Christopher Sheldrake, it takes just two primary ideas, lavender and incense, and weaves them into something far greater than the sum of those parts. The official description calls it "not for the uninitiated," but that warning is more about its meditative subtlety than any aggressive challenge.

The fragrance community has long respected this composition, frequently comparing the achievement to how Caron's Pour un Homme married lavender with vanilla. Where Pour un Homme found warmth and sweetness in the pairing, Encens et Lavande finds transparency, smoke, and air. It stands apart within the Serge Lutens catalogue as something genuinely different from the house's typical dark, orientalist aesthetic.

What It Smells Like

The opening is bright and herbal, with high-quality French lavender arriving crisp and radiant. There is a touch of clary sage and rosemary that enhances the herbal qualities, along with juniper berry providing a subtle green tinge. This is not the synthetic, soapy lavender of mass-market grooming products. It blooms with the complexity of actual lavender fields, airy and warm.

Within the first hour, incense begins its slow entrance, gradually shifting the composition's tone from herbal brightness to woody, smoky depth. The incense is a combination of frankincense and myrrh-like resins, gauzy and transparent rather than heavy or churchy. The amber base adds a soft, balsamic warmth that cushions both elements.

The overall effect is described by one Parfumo reviewer as "blooming lavender fields, crisp morning air and warm sunshine" in the opening, transforming into something "woodsier and darker, but never losing its aromatic quality." It is very much a linear fragrance; the journey is less about dramatic shifts and more about the slow tilt from purple to smoke.

When to Wear It

Encens et Lavande is remarkably versatile for a niche fragrance. Spring and summer are its strongest seasons, where the lavender reads as fresh and the incense adds just enough weight. Fall extends the range as the smoky aspects feel more seasonally appropriate. Multiple reviewers note it does not perform well in cold weather, where the composition seems to flatten.

The moderate sillage makes it genuinely office-friendly, and its unisex character means it works on anyone. This is comfort-food perfumery for the Serge Lutens devotee, suited equally to weekend lounging, casual daytime wear, and quiet contemplation.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is moderate by Serge Lutens standards, which means adequate by anyone else's. Longevity ranges from five to ten hours depending on skin chemistry and application. One reviewer sprayed it on a pillow in the morning and could still detect it twelve hours later.

Sillage is where expectations need adjustment. The fragrance goes relatively quiet within the first thirty minutes, settling into a moderate projection zone. It is not a sillage monster like many other Serge Lutens offerings. The lavender fades faster than the incense, so the later hours present primarily as dry, smooth frankincense with a hint of herbal warmth behind the ears.

The Community Says

Enthusiasts are eloquent in their praise. One Fragrantica reviewer called it "simple but fantastic," describing "a gorgeous, airy incense note" alongside "bright, radiant lavender." A Basenotes member declared it "totally worth it" if you can pay the niche price, praising the masterful blending.

The reformulation conversation looms large, however. One passionate reviewer warned: "This fragrance is totally ruined in its actual form. Really bad reformulation happened recently, now it's a poor synthetic barber soap lavender. The mysterious aura and authentic lavender smelling are unfortunately gone." Multiple users confirm that older bottles are substantially superior, with the original possessing "an absolute marvel of crisp herbaceous lavender and gauzy frankincense."

One dissenter found it "chalky and dry, but also shrill and metallic," acknowledging the clever concept while concluding the execution simply did not work on their skin.

Who Should Buy This

If you love lavender beyond its barbershop associations and appreciate incense that whispers rather than preaches, Encens et Lavande is essential. It is particularly suited to those who value simplicity and transparency in perfumery, who understand that a two-note composition can be as profound as a twenty-note one. Fans of meditation, mindfulness, and quiet moments will find this fragrance to be a fitting companion.

Skip it if you are buying a current production bottle without having sampled it first, as reformulation complaints are serious and widespread. Also avoid it if you expect Serge Lutens to always deliver powerful sillage, or if you prefer your incense dark, heavy, and church-like. This is incense seen through morning light, not evening shadows.

The Bottom Line

Encens et Lavande proves that restraint is its own form of luxury. Christopher Sheldrake took two of perfumery's most ancient materials and found a meeting point between them that feels simultaneously timeless and modern. In its original formulation, it was among the most elegant lavender compositions ever made. If you can secure a vintage bottle, you will own a masterclass in how simplicity, executed with skill and the finest materials, can achieve what complexity often cannot.