Black XS (2018)

The Verdict

Black XS (2018) arrived not as a flanker but as a full relaunch of the 2005 original, repackaged and — depending on who you ask — reformulated by Olivier Cresp and Rosendo Mateu. The original Black XS had a devoted following for its bold, dark, almost confrontational sweetness: strawberry, incense, and gourmand depth that hit hard and lasted all day. The 2018 version takes the same name and general DNA, then cleans it up considerably — brighter citrus, softer spice, less gourmand depth. With a 4.08 average from over a thousand community votes and 42% calling it a favorite, it has earned its own audience. But the shadow of what came before hangs over every review, and the community's relationship with this fragrance is complicated.

What It Smells Like

The opening is noticeably brighter than the original. Lemon and broad Citruses combine with Sage and Marigold for an aromatic, almost herbal-fresh start that is decidedly more approachable than the 2005 version's aggressive launch. The sage adds a green, slightly savory quality that grounds the citrus and hints at what is coming.

The heart is where Black XS finds its character. Praline brings a dense, milky, cacao-like sweetness that is the fragrance's signature move, backed by Cinnamon and Cardamom for warm spice and Tolu Balsam for a resinous, balsamic depth. This is the sweet-spicy core that makes the fragrance a people-pleaser — when people are asked to smell several colognes blind, Black XS consistently gets favorable reactions.

The drydown reveals Patchouli, Palisander Rosewood, Ebony Tree, and Ambergris, creating a woody-amber base that provides structure beneath the sweetness. The rosewood and ebony bring a touch of aromatic woodiness, though the patchouli and ambergris are subtle rather than prominent. In its final hours, it reads as a moderate-projection, resinous, sweet fragrance with warm spice and woody undertones.

When to Wear It

Fall and winter evenings are the natural home for Black XS, with spring nights also working well. The community decisively favors nighttime wear (22% night versus 14% day), and the sweet-spicy profile is tailor-made for social occasions after dark — dinners, bars, clubs, and dates. It can stretch into casual daytime wear in cooler weather, but the sweetness may feel excessive in a conservative office setting or under a hot sun.

Longevity & Projection

This is the most contentious aspect of the 2018 version, and the answer depends heavily on your frame of reference. Judged on its own, most reviewers report 5-8 hours of wear with decent projection for the first 2-3 hours before settling into a skin scent. Some wearers get closer to 8 hours with satisfying sillage throughout.

Judged against the original Black XS, which fans remember as a "genetically-modified beast" that could project for hours, the 2018 version feels significantly weaker. One vocal critic claimed it "dries down to a skin-scent in 30 minutes," while others note the long-lasting dark strawberry-incense aroma of the original is simply absent. Three to four sprays on pulse points and clothing should serve most wearers well.

The Community Says

New wearers with no attachment to the original tend to be positive. One reviewer called it their "favourite fragrance ever" and credited it with getting them into the hobby. The crowd-pleasing sweet-spicy profile earns consistent compliments, and multiple reviewers note that nobody blindly dislikes it — it may not blow anyone away, but it rarely offends.

The original's fan base is far less forgiving. The common complaint is that the 2018 version stripped out the depth and gourmand character that made Black XS distinctive. "No depth, more citrus, and almost no gourmand feel" is a representative criticism. Some feel that if this had been released in the early-to-mid 2000s it would be considered a masterpiece, but by 2018 standards it reads as too generic. Several suggest Prada Luna Rossa Black as a superior alternative for the same occasions.

The reformulation question also lingers. While the 2018 version is technically presented as the same fragrance in new packaging, enough wearers report meaningful differences that the distinction between "reformulation" and "reimagining" feels academic.

Who Should Buy This

Black XS (2018) is well-suited for younger fragrance enthusiasts looking for an evening-friendly sweet-spicy scent at a reasonable price point. If you have never smelled the original and approach this with fresh expectations, the praline-cinnamon-wood combination is genuinely enjoyable and easy to wear. It is a solid choice for someone building their first collection who wants a nighttime complement to their daytime freshies.

Skip it if you are a devotee of the original Black XS and expect the same intensity, if you need a fragrance that projects aggressively all night, or if the sweet-spicy designer category feels played out to your nose. At this price range, the competition is fierce, and several alternatives outperform Black XS in both scent and longevity.

The Bottom Line

Black XS (2018) is a perfectly serviceable sweet-spicy evening fragrance that suffers primarily from the weight of its own legacy. Taken on its own terms, the praline-spice core is pleasant, the woody base provides enough depth to hold interest, and the compliment potential is real. Taken as a successor to the original Black XS, it feels like a diluted compromise — the rebel who went corporate. If you can separate the two, there is a genuinely likeable fragrance here. Just know what you are buying.