La Fille de Berlin Edition Limitée

The Verdict

La Fille de Berlin Edition Limitee is a 2023 special presentation of Christopher Sheldrake's 2013 rose composition for Serge Lutens. The fragrance itself tells the story of a woman who is "both mysterious and explosive," and the community's reaction to it has been fittingly divided. Some find it among the most beautiful rose fragrances money can buy. Others consider it surprisingly tame for a house known for provocative, boundary-pushing compositions.

The limited edition adds collector's appeal through its exclusive bottle design and restricted availability through select retailers like Printemps, but the juice inside is the same La Fille de Berlin that has been generating strong opinions since its original release. The question of whether this edition justifies its premium over the standard bottle depends entirely on how one values the packaging and exclusivity.

What It Smells Like

The opening delivers dewy rose and geranium notes that evoke tea roses and peonies, accompanied by soft violet undertones that give the composition an immediately romantic quality. The palmarosa heart adds a slightly spicy, rosy-green dimension that bridges the gap between the fresh opening and the darker base.

As it develops, the rose takes on what the community calls a "jammy" quality, with a fruity, almost cherry-like character emerging alongside patchouli. The honey note in the base adds an oily, chic richness that one reviewer describes as creating a "moody kind of rose" with a "slight cold cast." The oakmoss anchors everything with an earthy, green depth. This is not a rose bomb or a fresh rose; it is a rose seen through a dark, slightly gothic lens.

When to Wear It

La Fille de Berlin gravitates toward cooler weather and evening hours. Its dark, moody character suits romantic dinners, cultural events, and autumn walks more naturally than bright summer days. Despite its intensity on paper, its moderate projection makes it acceptable for office wear, though the honey-patchouli base may not appeal to everyone in close quarters.

Longevity & Projection

Longevity is a clear strength, with the Kafkaesque blog reporting approximately 9 hours and the broader community confirming overnight staying power on skin. The Fragrantica community notes that sillage, however, is average at best. The fragrance projects for roughly 20 minutes before pulling closer to the skin, becoming discreet after 3 hours and noticeable primarily to the wearer. CaFleureBon's reviewer, however, describes "outrageous sillage," suggesting that individual experience varies significantly.

The Community Says

Opinions are sharply divided. CaFleureBon calls it a rose "with a bullet," praising its beauty and brutality in equal measure. The Kafkaesque blog, however, finds it "quite boring" and "perfectly pleasant" in a way that implies disappointment from a house known for intellectual provocation. Basenotes reviewers appreciate the dark rose character but note it lacks the drama of other Lutens compositions. Fragrantica reviewers describe it as "chic, obviously oily rose, drowned in honey" with "a moody kind of rose." The Persolaise review and Candy Perfume Boy blog offer more positive assessments, finding beauty in its restrained darkness.

Who Should Buy This

This limited edition is primarily for Serge Lutens collectors and those who want the La Fille de Berlin fragrance in a special presentation. Rose enthusiasts seeking something beyond the typical fresh-dewy rose will find its dark, honeyed character compelling. However, those who already own the standard edition have little olfactory reason to purchase this variant.

The Bottom Line

La Fille de Berlin Edition Limitee is a beautiful, moody rose fragrance that suffers mainly from the weight of expectations. Against the Serge Lutens catalog of provocative, boundary-pushing compositions, its well-behaved elegance can feel anticlimactic. Taken on its own terms, however, it offers a distinctive vision of rose that is darker, more complex, and more interesting than the vast majority of rose fragrances on the market.