1888

The Verdict

Carnation is one of perfumery's most neglected flowers. Once a staple of classic compositions, it has been largely abandoned by modern perfumers in favor of safer, more marketable florals. Xerjoff's 1888, released in 2013 as part of the Casamorati line, makes a compelling case for its return. Named after the year Claudio Casamorati founded his Italian perfume house, this fragrance is an unapologetically old-school spicy floral oriental -- and the community loves it for that. With 48% calling it a love and 33% more giving it a like, this is one of the most consistently praised entries in Xerjoff's extensive catalog.

What It Smells Like

The opening is a bold announcement. Carnation dominates from the first spray -- sweet, spicy, and clove-like, with a richness that immediately signals quality. Saffron adds a metallic, almost honeyed warmth alongside it, while Pepper and Coriander contribute a peppery sharpness that prevents the florals from feeling languid. Some wearers detect a comforting menthol quality from the coriander -- one reviewer compared it to a luxurious take on the familiar warmth of Vicks, which sounds odd but makes sense on skin.

As the spicy top settles, the heart reveals itself as genuinely beautiful. Ylang-Ylang brings a sweet, almost narcotic floral depth that pairs gorgeously with the carnation. Rose adds a velvety smoothness, and Neroli provides just enough citrus brightness to prevent the composition from going completely dark. The heart is where 1888 earns its reputation -- the interplay between carnation, ylang-ylang, and saffron is rich and intoxicating without crossing into heaviness.

The drydown is all creamy warmth. Sandalwood and Amber create a resinous, enveloping base, while Patchouli adds a dry, herbaceous earthiness. Birch contributes a subtle, non-smoky green quality that keeps the base feeling alive rather than static. The whole composition settles into something that smells unmistakably expensive -- like the interior of a well-appointed Italian leather shop.

When to Wear It

Fall and winter are where 1888 belongs. The rich, spicy character needs cool air to express itself properly, and it pairs beautifully with formal attire and evening settings. Some adventurous wearers push it into summer, noting that heat amplifies its sweetness in interesting ways, but the consensus favors cooler months.

This is primarily an evening fragrance, though the community is surprisingly split between day and night wear. It works for formal dinners, date nights, gallery openings, and any occasion where you want to leave a lasting impression. Casual daytime errands are probably not the right context -- this fragrance has presence and expects you to match it.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is exceptional. Most wearers report 10+ hours easily, with some finding traces the next day. One reviewer gave longevity a 10/10, stating "you are covered for the day with one spray." Projection is strong for the first 2-3 hours, creating a noticeable aura, then settles into a closer sillage that still registers at arm's length for another 4-5 hours.

Three sprays is plenty. The concentration is high and the ingredients are rich -- overapplication will overwhelm rather than impress.

The Community Says

The fragrance community treats 1888 with genuine respect. One reviewer called it "a stunning masterpiece -- unique, deep, complicated, and well blended from opening to drydown." Another described the experience more practically: "If you walk in a room wearing this, people will ask and wonder who you are." Multiple reviewers report it as one of their most complimented fragrances, with one estimating "a hit rate of about 90%."

The carnation note draws particular praise. Since so few modern fragrances feature it, wearing 1888 already guarantees a degree of uniqueness. One Parfumo reviewer summed it up efficiently: "Carnation, saffron, and warm creamy woods. Among Casamorati's best. Versatile but distinguished, with good performance."

Not everyone is convinced. Some find the overall character too old-fashioned or too feminine for male wear, though others disagree and consider it genuinely unisex. A few reviewers detected an unexpected root beer quality in the drydown -- an association that delights some and puzzles others. The Basenotes community also noted that this fragrance "has character, so you should have personality to pull this off."

One practical criticism deserves mention: several buyers have complained about the label quality on the bottle peeling or looking cheaply printed, which feels incongruous with a niche brand at this price point.

Who Should Buy This

1888 is for the fragrance enthusiast who appreciates classical perfumery with modern execution. If you gravitate toward spicy orientals, rich florals, and compositions that develop over hours rather than minutes, this is your territory. It is especially rewarding for anyone who has grown tired of the sameness in modern designer releases and wants something with genuine character.

Skip it if you prefer light, fresh, or aquatic fragrances, if you need something for warm weather, or if you want a simple crowd-pleaser that never challenges. 1888 asks something of its wearer -- the confidence to carry a bold, distinctive scent.

The Bottom Line

Xerjoff 1888 is a love letter to classical Italian perfumery, built around a note -- carnation -- that most houses have forgotten. The saffron-carnation opening, the ylang-ylang enriched heart, and the creamy amber-sandalwood drydown create an arc that feels both timeless and distinctive. With exceptional longevity and a compliment rate that rivals fragrances twice its price, this is one of the best values in Xerjoff's lineup and one of the finest spicy floral orientals on the market today.