Valentino

The Verdict

Valentino by Valentino, unveiled in 1978 at the Theatre des Champs-Elysees during a ballet performance, represents a golden era of perfumery when compositions were uncompromisingly complex and unapologetically feminine. Created by Givaudan and designed by Pierre Dinand, this green floral is a fragrance of passion and magnificence that has earned devoted admirers among vintage perfume enthusiasts. It stands as a testament to what perfumery once was: lush, layered, and unbothered by modern regulatory constraints.

Those who encounter it today consistently praise its beauty while acknowledging it smells unmistakably of its era. For some, that is its greatest virtue; for others, it is a barrier to enjoyment.

What It Smells Like

The opening is strikingly green, fresh, and optimistic. Green notes, basil, and lemon create a vibrant, almost effervescent introduction, with peach adding a soft fruity sweetness. Reviewers describe it as calming green notes and citruses over sprays of freshly cut flowers, like stepping into a sun-warmed garden after rain.

The heart is a grand floral bouquet where lily-of-the-valley takes the starring role alongside hyacinth, jasmine, rose, cyclamen, and carnation. The effect is lush and complex, like being surrounded by armfuls of freshly cut flowers. One reviewer notes a particularly beautiful quivering pink cyclamen note. The oakmoss and civet base provides an earthy, animalic foundation that was characteristic of its era, with musk and cedar adding structure. The drydown is warm, musky, and totally powdery.

When to Wear It

Reviewers recommend Valentino for late summer days when you want something different from typical warm-weather fare. It pairs perfectly with the imagery of pretty dresses, adorable sandals, and romantic outings. The fragrance suits garden parties, cultural events, evening dinners, and any occasion that calls for unapologetic femininity. Its complexity and projection make it better suited to special occasions than daily office wear.

Longevity & Projection

The vintage formulation benefits from generous amounts of oakmoss in its base, which one reviewer noted contains enough to choke an IFRA bureaucrat. This provides strong lasting power and noticeable projection, though specific hour counts are difficult to pin down given the variability of vintage bottles. The animalic civet base ensures the drydown lingers with warmth and depth well beyond the initial floral display.

The Community Says

Vintage fragrance blogs and forums celebrate Valentino as a masterpiece of its era. The Black Narcissus calls it a loquacious champagne bubblebath of a perfume that is ardently romantic and classy. The Non-Blonde describes it as a pretty, super feminine perfume while acknowledging it smells dated. Fragrantica users compare it favorably to Jean Patou Joy and YSL Champagne. The consensus is that it is well worth buying if you can find it for lovers of complex vintage fragrances.

Who Should Buy This

Valentino is for the dedicated vintage fragrance collector who seeks out discontinued treasures and appreciates perfumery from an era of fewer restrictions. If you love green florals with animalic depth, classical French-style bouquets, and fragrances that tell a story of their time, this is a rewarding hunt. However, if animalic notes, loud florals, or vintage character challenge your sensibilities, this is not the place to start your vintage exploration.

The Bottom Line

Valentino by Valentino is a magnificent relic of 1970s perfumery: lush, complex, unapologetically feminine, and increasingly difficult to find. For those who appreciate vintage grandeur, it remains a beautiful and romantic composition that modern perfumery has largely abandoned.