Carlisle

The Verdict

Parfums de Marly Carlisle has carved out a loyal following as one of the house's most commanding and seductive offerings. Released in 2015, it consistently ranks in the top three favorites among Parfums de Marly enthusiasts, earning praise for its rich blend of dark patchouli, warm vanilla, and spiced apple. The community frequently describes it as what would happen if Layton and Oajan had a child: combining the best elements of both into something uniquely satisfying.

However, the specter of reformulation hangs over Carlisle, as it does with much of the Parfums de Marly lineup. Longtime fans report that newer batches have reduced performance compared to the original release, and the brand has not been transparent about these changes. Despite this, even reformulated versions retain the essential character that made Carlisle beloved, and the overall community sentiment remains strongly positive.

What It Smells Like

Carlisle opens with a striking combination of green apple, nutmeg, and saffron, brightened by touches of bergamot and mandarin. The apple note is particularly prominent and distinctive, giving the opening a fresh-fruity crispness that belies the darkness to come. The saffron and nutmeg add an immediate spiced richness.

The heart reveals a complex floral tapestry where tonka bean and rose meet osmanthus and davana. The osmanthus contributes an apricot-like sweetness while the davana adds a plummy, boozy quality. This is where Carlisle begins to show its depth, with the fruity-floral interplay creating a sense of sophisticated warmth.

The base is where Carlisle truly shines: patchouli, vanilla, and opoponax combine to create a dark, resinous foundation that is both sweet and earthy. The patchouli is rich and prominent without being headshop-like, while the vanilla adds creamy warmth. Multiple reviewers describe the drydown as intoxicating, with the apple and patchouli fading to let warm vanilla wash over the composition.

When to Wear It

Carlisle is a cold-weather evening fragrance. Its dark, rich character makes it ideal for fall and winter occasions, particularly date nights and social events where you want to project confidence and sophistication. The depth of the patchouli-vanilla base creates a cocooning warmth that feels natural when temperatures drop.

This is not a fragrance for casual daytime wear or office settings. Its projection and intensity can be overwhelming in close quarters, and its dark character reads as too heavy for lighthearted occasions. Several reviewers specifically note it does not lend itself to casual wear.

Longevity & Projection

When performance is good, it is very good. Community reports on original or earlier batches cite 10-14 hours of longevity, with strong projection for the first 6 hours before settling into a closer skin scent for the remaining duration. The scent trail is described as solid and dense.

However, reformulation has affected consistency. Some wearers of recent batches report reduced longevity, though most still find it decent for the category. This variability is a source of frustration given the premium price point, and prospective buyers should be aware that individual batch performance may vary.

The Community Says

On Reddit and Fragrantica, Carlisle receives consistent praise for its composition quality. Fragrantica reviewers award it 4.42 out of 5 stars, with specific praise for the apple-patchouli combination and the warm vanilla drydown. Basenotes reviews highlight its "fantastic longevity and correct amount of projection."

The primary criticism centers on reformulation. Forum discussions on Basenotes specifically address PDM's pattern of reformulating fragrances and reducing performance without acknowledgment. Some longtime fans express disappointment that newer batches do not match their memories of the original release. Despite this, the core composition continues to win converts.

Who Should Buy This

Carlisle is ideal for fragrance enthusiasts who enjoy rich, dark, sweet compositions with depth and complexity. Fans of patchouli-vanilla accords, spiced apple fragrances, and the broader Parfums de Marly aesthetic will find much to love. It works well as a unisex fragrance, though its dark intensity may skew masculine in perception.

Avoid Carlisle if you prefer fresh, light, or citrus-forward fragrances, or if you need something appropriate for office wear. Given the reformulation concerns, sampling a current batch before committing to a full bottle is recommended.

The Bottom Line

Parfums de Marly Carlisle remains one of the house's crown jewels, delivering a sophisticated and commanding dark sweetness that rewards confident evening wear. While reformulation concerns are valid, the core composition of apple, patchouli, and vanilla continues to captivate. For cold-weather occasions where you want to make an impression, Carlisle delivers.