Akaster

The Verdict

Parfums de Marly Akaster launched in 2015 as an oriental unisex composition that takes on the popular rose-oud pairing with an aromatic, refined approach. While it has not received the attention afforded to Carlisle or Layton in the house's lineup, fragrance critics have repeatedly called it an under-the-radar jewel. CaFleureBon's Sebastian Jara singled it out as one of his favorite lesser-known perfumes specifically for its use of two different roses and a gorgeous oud accord.

The community at large considers Akaster a competent, well-constructed rose-oud that delivers genuine quality without breaking new ground in a crowded category. Parfumo users rate it 7.2 out of 10 overall, while Fragrantica reviewers acknowledge its polish but note that it competes against dozens of similar compositions from other houses.

What It Smells Like

The opening offers an immediate departure from the typical heavy rose-oud template. Cypress provides a sharp, green-aromatic quality that cuts through the richness, while lemon adds bright citrus clarity. This aromatic freshness is what sets Akaster apart from many competitors in the category and gives it an appealing wearability from the first spray.

The heart blooms with two distinct rose varieties. Bulgarian rose delivers its characteristic lush, honeyed sweetness, while the composition also incorporates a drier rose facet. African geranium adds a rosy-green, slightly minty quality that reinforces the aromatic character established in the opening. CaFleureBon described the rose here as dry rather than jammy or syrupy, a deliberate choice that keeps the fragrance from becoming cloying.

The base brings warmth and depth through agarwood (oud), which is dark, woody, and refined rather than barnyric or aggressive. Musk smooths the transition, and cardamom adds a luxurious spiced warmth. Basenotes reviewers described the oud as a Western synthetic interpretation -- a step above typical Montale or Mancera offerings but not on the level of something from a Middle Eastern house.

When to Wear It

Akaster is best suited for cooler weather and evening occasions where its warm, spiced character can develop fully. The rose-oud combination thrives in fall and winter, when the aromatic cypress and cardamom spice feel seasonally appropriate. Date nights, evening dinners, and cultural events provide ideal settings for its moderate-to-strong projection.

The fragrance can lean masculine despite being marketed as unisex, so women who enjoy wearing bold, traditionally masculine compositions will find it rewarding, while men will find it sophisticated without being overpowering.

Longevity & Projection

Performance reviews vary but generally land in positive territory. Multiple reviewers report longevity of 6 to 8 hours, with CaFleureBon noting impressive longevity of about 8 hours with good projection for over 4 hours. However, some community members report that initial projection is strong -- one spray is plenty detectable -- but sustained performance drops off after the first few hours. Parfumo rates longevity at 6.9 out of 10 and sillage at 6.8 out of 10, suggesting solid but not exceptional performance.

The Community Says

The fragrance community is largely positive about Akaster while acknowledging its limitations. CaFleureBon called it an aromatic interpretation of the rose-oud combination where each note works with each other harmoniously. Basenotes forum members discussing Akaster alongside Carlisle note that it attracts less attention but delivers genuine quality, though purists criticize it for being a synthetic Western oud from a brand known for manufactured historical pedigrees. Fragrantica reviewers are split between those who call it underrated and essential and those who dismiss it as just another rose-oud in an oversaturated market. The consensus is that Akaster is really nice and well put together, even if the cynicism about the stiff price is understandable.

Who Should Buy This

Akaster is ideal for rose-oud enthusiasts who want a smoother, more aromatic interpretation than the heavy, barnyric versions typical of the category. If you appreciate the rose-oud pairing but find many versions too aggressive or one-dimensional, Akaster's cypress-geranium-cardamom supporting cast delivers welcome complexity. It also suits Parfums de Marly fans looking to explore beyond the house's more mainstream releases.

Purists seeking authentic Middle Eastern oud character or anyone who already owns several rose-oud fragrances may find Akaster too familiar to justify the purchase price.

The Bottom Line

Parfums de Marly Akaster is a polished, aromatic rose-oud that deserves more recognition than it receives. The interplay between cypress freshness and warm spiced rose-oud creates a more nuanced experience than many competitors offer, and the performance is reliable if not spectacular. In a crowded market, Akaster distinguishes itself through restraint and balance rather than volume, making it a solid choice for those who value refinement in their orientals.