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Nishane Unutamam is a daring, experimental extrait that divides the fragrance community with its aggressive herbaceous opening, animalic castoreum depth, and sweet caramel-leather drydown.
Nishane Unutamam is not a fragrance that asks for your approval. From the house's Experimental Collection, this 2019 extrait de parfum by perfumer Miguel Matos is a composition that intentionally straddles the line between lush seduction and animalic ferocity. The name itself, which translates roughly to "unforgettable" in Turkish, proves prophetic -- once you smell this, you will not forget it, whether you loved it or despised it.
The fragrance community remains sharply divided. Passionate advocates call it a masterpiece of fearless perfumery, praising its complexity and nuclear performance. Detractors describe it in far less flattering terms, comparing it to shoe polish, burning tires, or an herb garden with halitosis. This level of polarization is rare even in niche perfumery, and it speaks to the uncompromising vision behind the composition.
What everyone agrees on is that Unutamam is not boring. In a market flooded with safe, crowd-pleasing releases, this fragrance stands out for its willingness to challenge and provoke.
The opening is an intense blast of aromatic herbs -- lavender, rosemary, mint, and juniper hit you with camphor-like freshness that borders on medicinal. Oregano adds a sharp, almost savory quality that catches many wearers off guard. This is not a gentle introduction; it is a declaration.
Around the two-hour mark, the spicy floral heart begins to emerge. Jasmine and carnation introduce unexpected beauty into the composition, though the jasmine carries dense, animalic indole that keeps things edgy. Patchouli and amber add warmth, while the oregano persists as an unusual herbal thread winding through the heart.
The drydown is where admirers find their reward. Castoreum and cistus create a smoky, leathery foundation that some describe as petroleum-like or reminiscent of military-grade leather. Caramel intertwines with oakmoss against this animalic leather backdrop, producing a rubbery-sweet finish that is genuinely unlike anything else on the market.
Unutamam demands cooler weather and evening contexts. Its intensity and animalic character make it unsuitable for warm days or close office quarters. Art openings, intimate dinner parties, and creative gatherings provide the ideal backdrop for this provocative scent.
This is emphatically not a daily wear fragrance. It requires a certain mood, a certain confidence, and most importantly, a willingness to accept that not everyone around you will appreciate what they are smelling.
Performance is one area where Unutamam receives near-universal praise. Two sprays are sufficient for most wearers, delivering exceptional projection that announces your presence and longevity that can carry through an entire day and evening. The sillage is substantial, so restraint in application is strongly advised.
The 30ml bottle at the extrait concentration means a little goes a very long way. Despite the smaller format, this is a fragrance that will last through many wearings.
Fragrantica reviewers and forum members remain deeply split. Enthusiasts describe it as a groundbreaking fragrance with off-the-charts uniqueness that rewards patience and repeated wearing. Negative reviews are equally passionate, with some finding the castoreum-oregano combination genuinely offensive. One common warning from the community: it can stain white clothing, so wear accordingly.
On Basenotes, positive reviewers highlight the earthy, well-balanced woody aromatic musk character, with lavender and juniper creating a green herbal woodland feel. The consensus is that thorough testing before purchase is essential.
Unutamam is exclusively for the experienced fragrance enthusiast who has already explored conventional niche territory and craves something genuinely different. If you have enjoyed challenging animalic fragrances and appreciate perfumery that prioritizes artistic expression over crowd appeal, this deserves your attention.
Absolutely sample before buying. The extreme polarization means blind purchasing carries significant risk, even for adventurous noses.
Nishane Unutamam earns its place in the Experimental Collection through sheer audacity. It is a fragrance that will thrill a select few and repel many others, and it makes no apologies for either outcome. For those who connect with its fierce herbal-animalic-leather character, it offers an unforgettable experience that lives up to its name.
Consensus Rating
7/10
Community Sentiment
mixedSources Analyzed
6 community posts (1 Reddit) (5 forum)
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This review is AI-generated based on analysis of 6 community discussions. Individual experiences may vary.