(untitled)

The Verdict

When Martin Margiela sought to create his house's first fragrance, he had a singular vision: a green flash captured in a bottle. He turned to Daniela Andrier, the perfumer behind Prada's acclaimed Infusion line, to realize this vision. The result, launched in 2010 as simply "(untitled)," is a fragrance that speaks for itself and needs no name -- a bold, uncompromising celebration of raw green galbanum wrapped in aromatic complexity.

(untitled) is a fragrance that divides with purpose. Those who connect with its sharp, vegetal opening find it revelatory, while those who prefer conventional comfort find it confrontational. Either way, it is undeniably one of the more interesting green compositions released in the past two decades.

What It Smells Like

The opening is a thunderclap of concentrated galbanum -- intense, bitter-green, and absolutely unapologetic. Community members describe the first five minutes as "Galbanum HEAVEN," a glittering, concentrated pulse of green that is raw and alive. Bitter orange adds citrus brightness and an additional layer of bitterness that doubles down on the fragrance's sharp, uncompromising character.

As the initial intensity subsides, the heart reveals a more diffused, accessible greenness. Jasmine provides floral luminosity with indolic depth, adding a layer of creamy sensuality beneath the green canopy. The verdant boxwood note, which several reviewers specifically praise, contributes a unique hedge-like quality that reinforces the image of rain-soaked garden foliage.

The base is sheer and elegant. Cedar provides dry woody structure, incense adds a whiff of smoky mystery, and a high-quality white musk brings everything together with a clean, refined finish that avoids the commercial detergent quality of lesser musks. The overall effect is of a green composition that moves from concentrated intensity to airy diffusion.

When to Wear It

Multiple reviewers note that (untitled) performs best in warm weather, where its green freshness becomes genuinely refreshing rather than merely interesting. Hot summer days bring out the fragrance's best qualities, making it a compelling alternative to the citrus-aquatic fragrances that dominate warm-weather wearing.

The intellectual, somewhat avant-garde character makes it well-suited for creative workplaces, gallery visits, and cultural events. Some reviewers describe it as "definitely a scent for a working woman" that makes them feel "fierce, bossy, and powerful."

Longevity & Projection

Longevity is above average, with the green-woody-musky drydown persisting for many hours after application. However, the galbanum fireworks of the opening dissipate within the first 30-60 minutes, transitioning to the softer heart and base.

Projection is average -- present enough to be noticed in conversation range but not room-filling. This moderate projection is consistent with the fragrance's design philosophy: it creates a personal green aura rather than announcing itself from across the room. Some critics find the projection disappointingly weak, while others appreciate the restraint.

The Community Says

The community response to (untitled) is warm but niche. Supporters describe it as "innovative and unusual" and "a lovely, forward-thinking entry into what precisely a modern, self-aware classically informed green scent could be." The galbanum opening is frequently singled out as extraordinary. Critics acknowledge the quality but note concerns about projection, with one reviewer finding it "really nice, but very weak" and another calling it "just an ok fragrance with no more than reasonable projection and barely acceptable lasting power." Fragrantica, Basenotes, and several independent fragrance blogs feature thoughtful discussions of this composition.

Who Should Buy This

(untitled) is essential sampling for anyone who loves green fragrances, particularly those built around galbanum. If you appreciate the green-bitter family and enjoy fragrances with intellectual ambition and conceptual integrity, this delivers on all counts. It also appeals to fans of Maison Margiela's deconstructionist design philosophy who want a fragrance that embodies the brand's avant-garde spirit.

Those who find green fragrances too bitter, too herbal, or too challenging should steer clear. This is not a gateway green -- it is a deep dive.

The Bottom Line

Maison Martin Margiela's (untitled) is a triumph of concept and composition -- a green flash that lives up to its creator's vision. Daniela Andrier's masterful handling of galbanum, boxwood, and incense creates a fragrance that is simultaneously raw and refined, challenging and rewarding. It may not project with authority, but what it says is worth leaning in to hear.