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Under the Stars by Maison Martin Margiela is a Oriental Woody fragrance for women and men. Under the Stars was launched in 2023. The nose behind this fragrance is Meabh McCurtin. Top note is Black Pepper; middle note is Leather; base notes are Agarwood (Oud) and Labdanum. Maison Martin Margiela is introducing a fresh addition to its Replica line, titled Under the Stars. With its blend of oud and amber, Under The Stars captures the cozy ambiance of a campfire crackling beneath a mesmerizing tapestry of stars. This fragrance evokes a sense of warmth and wonder, made to transport you to a night under the open sky. The year is 2022, and the location is Namibia. The description of the composition is "oud and leather." Replica Under the Stars is available as a 30 ml and a 100 ml Eau de Toilette.
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A Campfire in the Desert That Refuses to Wash Off — Under the Stars by Maison Martin Margiela
Under the Stars is the rebel of the Replica lineup. While most of the collection trades in safe, comforting nostalgia, this 2023 release by perfumer Meabh McCurtin throws smoky oud and raw leather at you and dares you to keep up. The community is genuinely split on it: roughly 31% love it and 26% like it, but a vocal minority finds it outright offensive. That polarization is exactly what makes it interesting in a line often criticized for playing it safe.
The opening is a sharp blast of Black Pepper and cinnamon that borders on aggressive. Within minutes, the heart takes over with a surprisingly supple Leather accord that one community member compared to "a filthy oud that has been through the washing machine." That tension between raw and clean is the entire point of this fragrance.
As it develops, the Oud and Labdanum in the base bring warmth and a campfire smokiness that lingers close to the skin. There is an animalic edge here that some describe as "burnt rubber tire" characteristic of oud, while others find it sweet, airy, and deeply satisfying. Think of sitting by a crackling fire in the Namibian desert at midnight -- warm skin, worn leather jacket, smoke drifting upward into a clear sky.
The community at Parfumo draws a telling comparison: Under the Stars smells like "the little and shy brother of Amouage Interlude Man." If Interlude is too brash and spicy for your taste, this offers a similar DNA in a more approachable package.
This is firmly a cold-weather, after-dark fragrance. Community votes lean heavily toward nighttime use (27% night versus just 8% day), and the dense, smoky character would feel suffocating in summer heat. It thrives on crisp fall evenings and cold winter nights when its warmth works in your favor rather than against you.
Here is where Under the Stars defies expectations for the Replica line, which is frequently criticized for poor lasting power. This one is borderline nuclear. Multiple community members report the scent surviving showers and still being detectable 10-12 hours later from just a single spray. One frustrated owner noted it was "the only Replica that refuses to wash off" before selling it.
Projection is strong for the first 2-3 hours, then settles into a persistent skin scent that people around you can still detect. Two sprays on pulse points is plenty. Three may clear a room if the people in it are not oud fans.
With roughly 1,300 community votes and a 3.48 average on a 5-point scale, Under the Stars sits in contested territory. The love-it camp praises it as "possibly one of the most wearable leathers" in its price range and a genuinely unique addition to the Replica collection. Several community members who normally avoid oud and leather were surprised to find this one approachable, calling it "a sweet, smooth and deep fragrance especially for someone oud/leather-averse."
The hate-it camp does not mince words. Descriptions like "in-your-face oud and leather with a big fat note of dirty ashtray" and "disgusting and straight up nasty" come up in reviews. One member who loves leather fragrances like Penhaligon's Halfeti Leather still called this one "awful," suggesting the specific leather accord is the dividing line.
The Fragrantica editorial review offered perhaps the most balanced take, describing the central tension as intentional: "if you see this juxtaposition as deliberate, the fragrance takes on a captivating sense of energy, magnetism, and curiosity."
Under the Stars is for the person who finds the rest of the Replica line too safe and wants something with genuine edge. It works especially well as an introduction to oud fragrances, offering that smoky, animalic character without the complexity or price tag of niche oud houses. If you already enjoy Amouage Interlude Man but want something lighter for casual wear, this fits that niche.
Skip it if you prefer clean, fresh fragrances, if you are shopping for an office-safe daily scent, or if you have found oud notes unpleasant in the past. This is not the one to convert oud skeptics who have already made up their minds.
Under the Stars is the most daring fragrance in the Replica collection, and the community reception reflects that gamble. It delivers exceptional longevity, a distinctive smoky leather character, and genuine personality at a price point well below the niche oud market. Sample before you commit -- this one demands a skin test more than most -- but if it clicks with your chemistry, you will have found one of the best values in accessible oud fragrances.
Consensus Rating
7.5/10
Community Sentiment
mixedSources Analyzed
10 community posts (4 Reddit) (6 forum)
This review is based on analysis of 10 community discussions. Individual experiences may vary.