APOM

The Verdict

APOM — A Part of Me — began its life in 2009 as two separate fragrances, one for men and one for women, both inspired by Francis Kurkdjian's travels through Lebanon. In 2024, Kurkdjian reunited them into a single genderless composition, folding the best elements of each version into one bottle. The result is a rich, luminous floral fougère that leans unmistakably toward the feminine side of the original pairing while incorporating the warmth and depth that made the masculine version distinctive.

This is a retro-leaning fragrance wearing a modern set of clothes — powdery, sweet, and unabashedly floral, it is the kind of scent that either feels like home or feels like too much. There is little neutral ground here.

What It Smells Like

The opening is a powdery citrus burst — tangy, slightly acidic, with a sharp zestiness that initially promises something fruitier than what follows. Within minutes, Orange Blossom and Ylang-Ylang arrive together and dominate the heart, creating a radiant, almost solar floral quality. The ylang is not subdued here; it brings its characteristic honeyed, slightly heady character front and center.

Lavender provides an aromatic counterweight, giving the composition its fougère structure and keeping the florals from becoming cloying. As the fragrance evolves, Amber and Vanilla move in from the base, adding a warm, velvety softness that transforms the effect from sheer floral to something more enveloping. Musk ties everything together with a clean, slightly animalic undertone.

The dry-down is the most universally praised phase: a nostalgic, comforting blend of vanilla, amber, and musk that several reviewers describe as "addictive" and "skin-like." The overall progression is from bright and floral to warm and enveloping, covering a wide range of moods within a single wearing.

When to Wear It

The 2024 APOM suits transitional weather best — spring and fall, when moderate temperatures let the florals breathe without the amber and vanilla becoming oppressive. Spring and summer daytime wear works well when the composition reads lighter and more luminous. In deeper cold, the amber base becomes the story, making it a valid autumn evening option too.

This is not a workplace fragrance for most people. The projection and sweet character of APOM demand the right context — intimate social settings, evening events, romantic occasions where presence is the point rather than a liability. One reviewer described it as a scent they imagined reaching for repeatedly in the depths of winter, suggesting the warmth it generates has genuine seasonal utility.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is where community opinion diverges sharply. Some reviewers report excellent longevity — all-day wear with a sillage that announces itself confidently. Others describe it as weak for the price, fading quickly and struggling to project beyond a close radius. At a premium price point, this inconsistency is a legitimate concern.

One reviewer noted that as the day wore on, APOM became progressively stronger and more powdery, eventually requiring effort to remove — an extreme opposite of the usual fade. This suggests the fragrance interacts meaningfully with skin chemistry; what reads as moderate on one person becomes a "powdered bomb" on another. Testing on your own skin before committing is strongly advised.

The Community Says

The fragrance community greets the 2024 APOM with a mixture of appreciation and skepticism. Fans of vintage fougères and powdery florals find it genuinely compelling — one reviewer called it a throwback fragrance that benefits from Kurkdjian's modern, clean finishing touch, praising the way old and new elements coexist. Several enthusiasts praise it as "probably among the best clean musky scents" in the Kurkdjian lineup.

The critics, however, are direct. Some question whether a fragrance marketed as genderless actually delivers on that promise, noting it leans heavily toward what was the original Pour Femme version. Others feel the price — around $245 for 100ml — is difficult to justify when performance is this variable. A handful of Basenotes members expressed disappointment at what they saw as a step toward safer, more commercial territory for the house.

The comparison between the 2024 version and the originals is a recurring topic: one reviewer observed that the new release has smoother construction but less character, a description that captures the tension between accessibility and distinctiveness that runs through community discussions.

Who Should Buy This

APOM 2024 rewards people who love powdery, floral, and warm compositions — those who grew up on classic feminines and appreciate the structure of a proper fougère executed with contemporary clarity. It is well-suited to anyone who wants a fragrance with romantic, slightly nostalgic character.

Minimalists, fresh fragrance fans, and those who dislike sweet or powdery compositions should look elsewhere. Those committed to gender-neutral fragrances that genuinely read androgynous should sample carefully before buying, as the balance here tilts noticeably feminine.

The Bottom Line

The 2024 APOM is a well-crafted, emotionally resonant fragrance with an identity question at its center. As a unification of two beloved originals, it works — the orange blossom, lavender, and amber story is coherent and inviting. As a genderless fragrance at a premium price, it asks you to take it on faith that the blend is worth the investment. Sample first, wear it on your own skin, and give the dry-down time to make its case.