Air

The Verdict

Kenzo Air, created by Maurice Roucel in 2003, is a fragrance that the community has come to appreciate more in its absence than it perhaps did during its availability. Discontinued pre-2010, it has acquired the status of a hidden gem, a fragrance that those who discovered it tend to remember fondly and recommend with genuine enthusiasm. Roucel, known for compositions of effortless elegance, crafted something that lives up to its name: a scent that feels like air itself, transparent and calming.

The fragrance is built around an unconventional pairing of anise and vetiver that immediately sets it apart from the crowd of fresh masculine fragrances. This combination ensures that Kenzo Air is either something you connect with instantly or something that puzzles you. There is little middle ground when licorice is involved.

What It Smells Like

The composition leads with light, bright anise and licorice alongside sparkling bergamot, creating an opening that is unusual and immediately recognizable. The anise is present but not overwhelming, described as enough to dismay licorice-haters but balanced enough to intrigue those who are open to the note. Caraway adds an herbal-spicy quality that bridges the sweetness of the anise with the earthier elements to come.

As the fragrance develops, loamy, earthy vetiver emerges with a green, sappy quality that one reviewer likened to pine needles. Dry cedar adds a woody backbone, while amber provides subtle warmth. The overall effect is clean, fresh, bone dry, and completely unsweet, a warm-weather composition that feels like a lifesaver on hot days. The intentionally simple architecture allows each ingredient to shine.

When to Wear It

Kenzo Air was made for summer. Its sheer, airy character is most satisfying in hot weather, where heavier fragrances feel oppressive and lighter ones feel refreshing. It works beautifully for casual daytime wear, weekend activities, and any relaxed social setting where comfort takes priority over making a statement.

The fragrance lacks the weight and richness for cold weather or formal evening events. It is a fragrance for warm days and easy moods.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is modest, consistent with the fragrance's airy philosophy. Kenzo Air does not have much presence in terms of projection, and reviewers describe it as more sheer than not, easy to forget you are wearing. Longevity falls in the four to five hour range, with the fragrance maintaining a gentle, close-to-skin presence throughout. The Intense version, released in 2005, addressed these concerns with added cumin and angelica for stronger performance, though purists often prefer the lighter original.

The Community Says

The community speaks of Kenzo Air with the particular fondness reserved for fragrances that can no longer be easily obtained. Basenotes reviewers call it the best Kenzo fragrance for men ever, praising Roucel's skill in creating a fresh scent from anise, vetiver, and cedar that feels genuinely new. The common caveat is the licorice note: if you do not like licorice or ouzo, stay away. Those who do appreciate anise find it masterfully handled. The ugly frosted plastic bottle is universally panned, though fans note this kept the price low and made the discounted bottles that much easier to justify.

Who Should Buy This

Kenzo Air is for the adventurous fragrance lover who appreciates unusual note combinations and values subtlety over power. If you enjoy anise, licorice, or pastis, and want a summer fragrance that distinguishes itself from the ocean of aquatic and citrus freshies, Kenzo Air is worth tracking down. Collectors of discontinued gems will find the hunt rewarding. Given its rarity, checking online marketplaces and fragrance swap communities is the most reliable path to a bottle.

The Bottom Line

Kenzo Air is a quietly brilliant summer fragrance that pairs anise with vetiver in a composition of admirable restraint and transparency. Maurice Roucel created something that genuinely smells like its name suggests: a breeze rather than a perfume. Its discontinuation has only heightened appreciation for what was always an underrated entry in the Kenzo lineup, a fragrance too subtle for the masses but perfectly calibrated for those who understand its charm.