Une Fleur de Chanel

The Verdict

Chanel released Une Fleur de Chanel in 1998 as a limited edition coinciding with the Chelsea Flower Show. Karl Lagerfeld commissioned house perfumer Jacques Polge to accomplish something paradoxical: create a perfume inspired by the camellia flower, Coco Chanel's beloved symbol, which famously has no scent. The result was a green floral that imagined what the camellia might smell like if nature had given it a voice.

Reception was divided from the start. Now Smell This awarded it three out of five stars with the notation "nice; no desire to own it," while Perfume Posse's reviewer described it as "a bright flirty and fun floral that is alluring and languid at the same time" and speculated it was ahead of its time. Basenotes reviewers similarly ranged from calling it "beautifully constructed" to comparing it to "ABC air-freshener." The fragrance was reissued as another limited edition and then disappeared entirely.

What It Smells Like

The opening delivers a brisk rush of aldehydic citrus and green notes that Perfume Posse described as "fun and frisky." Within the first minute, a lovely banana-like ylang-ylang quality emerges, creating what the reviewer called "a sexy exotic vibe, very summer holiday on a tropical island."

The heart showcases jasmine and camellia -- the latter rendered as an abstract impression rather than a literal floral extraction. Basenotes reviewers describe the jasmine as stripped of its indolic tones, presented with its sweet, rich floral aroma upfront. A rose note intertwines with the jasmine, and the overall effect is a gentle, sweet bouquet that evokes clear water and light. Now Smell This noted a pleasant jasmine quality alongside the green notes.

The base of sandalwood provides a soft, woody platform. Perfume Posse noted the drydown settles into "a soft lemony green, a little bit sweetened green tea-ish, that goes for a few hours and fades to zero."

When to Wear It

Une Fleur de Chanel is a quintessential spring and summer fragrance. Its crisp green-floral character and light projection make it ideal for warm-weather daytime activities -- garden parties, casual lunches, and relaxed weekend outings. Perfume Posse suggested that if relaunched today, "it would be a smash," noting how its modern, clean aesthetic anticipates current tastes.

The fragrance works best in settings where subtlety is valued over impact, serving as a personal pleasure scent rather than a room-filler.

Longevity & Projection

Performance is the weakest aspect of Une Fleur de Chanel. Multiple reviewers note that it fades to nearly nothing within a few hours. The projection is intimate at best, staying very close to the skin. Perfume Posse described the trajectory as a strong opening followed by a soft lemony green that lasts a few hours before disappearing completely. As an eau de toilette, this concentration level contributes to the modest staying power.

The Community Says

The community is split into passionate admirers and dismissive critics. Basenotes features a thread titled "Une Fleur de Chanel and the rarity effect," exploring whether scarcity has inflated its perceived quality. Those who love it describe it as a beautiful, gentle scent that nothing else replicates -- one collector with over 200 fragrances stated they had never smelled anything quite like it. Fragrantica forum discussions show similar devotion, with multiple threads from users seeking alternatives. On the critical side, some describe it as lacking distinction, with one Basenotes reviewer comparing it to hotel bar soap. Now Smell This positioned it as worth trying but not essential. Fragrantica, Basenotes, Parfumo, Now Smell This, and Perfume Posse have all published reviews of this discontinued rarity.

Who Should Buy This

Une Fleur de Chanel appeals to collectors of rare Chanel fragrances and anyone who appreciates delicate, green floral compositions. If you enjoy jasmine without heaviness, green notes with sophistication, and the concept of imagining scent where none exists, tracking down a partial bottle on the secondary market could be rewarding.

Anyone who needs strong performance, easy availability, or rich complexity should look elsewhere. This is a whisper of a fragrance, not a statement.

The Bottom Line

Chanel Une Fleur de Chanel is a delicate green floral that attempted something conceptually beautiful -- giving scent to the scentless camellia. Its crisp, modern character has aged better than most late-1990s fragrances, and its devoted following speaks to a genuine charm that transcends its modest performance. Whether it was ahead of its time or simply too gentle for this world, it remains a fascinating curiosity in the Chanel catalog.